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Articles

FOUNDATIONAL TRAINING FOR COMPANION DOGS

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Dogs have various levels of learning capacity and motivation. Some dogs learn very quickly and some don’t. Some of them are motivated by food, toys or simply playing with their owners. Some are more difficult to be motivated. With my training, I have adapted various teaching methods. Each of these methods is chosen carefully tailored for your dog.


Up Bringing, Socialization, & Habituation - Puppies from 6 Weeks to 6 Months
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Puppies at this young age can be very energetic and sometimes destructive. They learn everything in a rapid rate, good and bad. Any experience to them may create a significant impact later in life due to imprinting. We should be gentle with the way we handle our puppies. Be firm, but be kind, fair, patient, and consistent. The better we can control our emotions the better we become as trainers. For convenience, “he” is used to refer dogs for both genders.

I can't emphasize enough about the importance of socialization and habituation of a young pup. A lot of the dogs I have come across that have severe behavioural disorders are due to a lack of exposures and stimulations from an early age. Once a particular behaviour is set (usually a bad one), it is usually quite difficult and time consuming to alter it. Please read this section carefully.

Socialization means letting your puppy have positive exposures with humans, other puppies, and animals. Habituation means introducing your puppy to various environments, situations, surfaces, objects, smells, and sounds so that he can familiarize with different surroundings. The most important thing is to provide your puppy a fun and pleasant experience with every exposure. Some veterinarians claim that puppies should not be exposed to environments outside the house until they have received the full shots of vaccinations, which is normally at the sixteenth week of the pups’ age. The perception these vets have is that it is unsafe for a puppy to go out because the likelihood of catching a disease before his last booster. However, disease such as Tracheobronchitis (Canine Cough) is spread by an airborne virus. Some viruses can even be brought home via your shoes and clothing. Keeping your puppy at home is just as “unsafe” as exposing him outside for socialization and habituation. A large amount of scientific studies have shown that the lack of human and environmental contacts to a pup from six weeks to sixteen weeks can do a lot more harm than good. During the period of 3 to 16 weeks of a puppy’s life, he undergoes the Socialization Period. This stage of life is often referred to as the Critical Period, due to the experience of a dog in this part of his life will have remarkable effects to his later years (Scott, 1962). A large number of dogs end up in the animal shelters every year because of the lack of early exposures and later develop unacceptable behaviours such as hyperactivity, separation anxiety, extreme shyness, and insecurity-based aggression. A well-exposed dog is naturally a lot more confident than his unexposed siblings, and grows into a more robust adult with a stable temperament. Once a young pup has reached 16 weeks, the window of this Socialization Period is closed, and exposures after this age have a much less influence on the puppy. Very often, the impact is irreversible. I start socializing and habituating all my puppies from the age of 6 to 7 weeks after their first shot of vaccination, and I have never had any problems with illness or diseases. If you are still concerned about the risks of infectious diseases, you may socialize your puppy away from higher risk places such as grassland until he is 8 weeks old, rather than not exposing him at all.

Both socialization and habituation involve much more then simply having friends over or taking the young animal for a drive. Exposures should involve taking the pup to different places including parks, urban areas, busy streets, crowded markets, horse stables, train stations, and frequent rides in vehicles. Always encourage him to be out-going. He also needs to meet and have physical contacts with a lot of different people of different genders, races, and ages. Other puppies and domesticated animals are part of the socialization subjects. Don’t forget to expose him to a wide range of noises and smells. Do all these sound like a lot of work? Not really. You only need to spend about 30 minutes in these stimulations about four days a week until your puppy reaches 6 months. These exposures will have major benefits in your puppy’s development and your bond with him. If you can’t spend even 30 minutes with your puppy once a day, you might want to consider having a goldfish instead.


Playing
--------
A majority of scientists and researchers have now agreed that all of the modern domestic dog breeds (Canis familiaris) originated from wolves. Behaviours that we recognize from dogs, including prey drive, aggression, social order, territorial instinct, etc, are inherited from wolves. Some of these behaviours, such as pointing in pointers, or retrieving in retrievers, have been developed and enhanced through generations of selective breeding by human so that we can better utilize these dogs for chosen purposes.

In nature, playing occupies a large portion of wolves' lives. It involves a lot more than just chasing each other around or having fun. Playing establishes learning, hunting, testing, ranking, bonding, fitness, strength, reflex, nervous system, interaction, communication, and social order in a pack. If we can exploit playing appropriately, not only we can develop stronger relationships with our dogs, we can also manipulate their behaviours to the highest degree.

First, the definition of playing here is the total interaction between human and dog without any toy involved. Personally, I encourage my puppy looking me in the eyes, running after me when I call him, and enjoying a lot of body contact with me. Biting is however, not allowed. In the first few days of our bonding, I would also give a little bit of food to my puppy every time he comes to me willingly. I strongly believe that playing starting from an early age will significantly enhance our relationship and makes training much easier.


How Dogs Learn
------------------
As stated earlier, all the breeds of today’s dogs, no matter how diverse they are in size and appearance, are descendants of wolves. In nature, wolves are genetically programmed to adapt to their habitats in order to survive. They quickly learn what works for them and what doesn't’t. One of the best-suited descriptions of learning is a change of behaviour due to experience.

During learning, there are 3 components involved:
1. Stimulus
2. Response
3. Reinforcement or Consequence

An example of this would be a young wolf learning to hunt. The wolf roams around his environment and uses his senses to investigate his surroundings. After hearing a rattling noise from the bush, he sees a rabbit running across the field and he starts to pursuit it. The young wolf captures his prey, kills it, and eats it, relieving his hunger. In this incident, the stimuli are the noise and the rabbit. The sight of the rabbit triggers the wolf’s response to chase. The reinforcement is the rabbit for food, which is very important for the wolf’s survival. When the wolf hears the rattling noise from the bush again, he is very likely to anticipate about a prey animal because of the positive reinforcement from the previous incident. He has learned that:

Rattling Noise = Rabbit = Food

I will discuss more about this example in Pairing & Conditioning.

Reinforcement is used for strengthening behaviours, while Consequence is applied to stop behaviours. For example, a puppy sees a cat for the first time decides to chase it. Half way in the pursuit, the cat turns around at the puppy, hisses and scratches him right on the nose. The puppy yelps and backs off. In this case, the first stimulus is the cat. The first response is to chase. When the cat turns around and hisses (second stimulus) however, there is no reinforcement and instead, there is a consequence, which is a scratch on the nose. The pup responds by yelping and backing off. He pairs the hissing cat with an unpleasant feeling. He has learned that:

Hissing Cat = Scratch = Pain

When the puppy sees a hissing cat again, he is likely to respond by retreating, to avoid the consequence.


Pairing & Conditioning
-------------------------
Ivan P. Pavlov’s Classical Conditioning from 1927 to 1960 discovered a dog’s automatic response to a stimulus and how it can be manipulated. In Classical Conditioning, the dog learns to pair a specific event with a specific response. Through experience, he learns to predict what will occur in association with a particular cue.

There are 2 types of stimuli in Classical Conditioning: unconditioned stimulus and conditioned stimulus.

Unconditioned stimulus is a natural trigger of unconditioned response. For example, food is an unconditioned stimulus to a dog, causing the unconditioned response of salivation.

Conditioned stimulus involves learning and it triggers conditioned response. To condition the dog, the unconditioned response is paired with a conditioned stimulus to develop a conditioned response. In one of Pavlov’s experiments, a dog was conditioned to salivate in anticipation of food when a bell rang. The conditioned stimulus was the bell and the conditioned response was salivation. To create this conditioned response, the ringing of the bell was paired with the presence of food. After a few times the dog associated the bell with food and would salivate every time the bell rang.

In the previous example of the young wolf and the rabbit, the sight of the rabbit is an unconditioned stimulus to the wolf. The pursuit is the unconditioned response. The rattling noise just before the sight of the rabbit is a conditioned stimulus that is paired with an unconditioned response of chasing to develop the conditioned response of the wolf anticipating the presence of food. The wolf now pairs the noise with the rabbit and he will anticipate the presence of a possible prey every time he hears the same noise. Understanding this principle, it gives us an idea how to condition our dogs doing what we want, or stop doing want we don’t want.


Teaching, Proofing, & Securing
-----------------------------------
Although I might use various training programs according to the dogs' temperaments, my training principle is always the same, that is, to explain to the dog that, “Do what I want, and you can have you want.” The question is, how do we tell that to a dog in his language? This is all done by the training sequence explained below.

1. Teaching with motivation - Your dog shows a particular behaviour because he wants to
2. Proofing under Distraction - Your dog shows a particular behaviour because he has to
3. Securing through Repetition - Your dog shows a particular behaviour because he understands

Teaching with Motivation
----------------------------
When first teaching a dog a particular exercise, for example the Sit, we first have to show the animal what exactly we expect him to do. The secret is to guide the dog doing what we want without forcing him during the process. It has to be all done by his own free will.

One of the motivations I can use is food, a primary reinforcement for the dog, given that he has an empty stomach. Have your dog wearing a collar and a lead so that he can accustom to the equipment for training in a later stage. You will need a food source that is highly attractive to dogs, such as sausages and cooked liver. First, have your dog in front of you and show him that you have food (chopped up sausage) in your right hand. A hungry dog would usually show great enthusiasm trying to eat the food. Keep your right hand closed in front of his nose and lift the food up slowly. As your dog lifts his head to follow your right hand, gently push down his hindquarter into a sit with your left hand. Simultaneously feed him a piece of food and tell him “Good Boy, Sit.” This process is called the Shaping of a Behaviour. It is critical to pair the command, position, food, and “Good Boy” all together so the dog can associate the cue (verbal command) with the response (sit), and reinforcement (food, “Good Boy”). In simple terms, to the dog: “Sit” command = sit = food. Sometimes individual dogs might become unsure or they might jump up on you to get the food. Be patient, ignore these behaviours and give your dog some help by lifting his head up gently by the collar while pressing on his backside. Persistence and guidance is the key and always associate good feelings with a new exercise you teach. Wait for a few seconds and tell your dog “Break” to free him from the Sit position. The “Break” is crucial because in the future, unless you say “Break”, your dog is not allowed to break a particular position. So Sit means sit and stay sit until you say otherwise. Repeat the exercise 5 to 10 times everyday for 3 to 5 days. Try to stretch the time of the exercise up to 3 minutes and then vary it. Once you get the desired behaviour with the Sit command consistently, you should gradually fade out the food and only reinforce randomly, as we don’t want the dog performing only with food. At this point, your dog is ready for a little distraction.

In this learning experience, the food is the unconditioned stimulus and the desire to eat it is the unconditioned response. We pair them with the Sit command (conditioned stimulus) and the Sit position (conditioned response). At the end, the dog achieves his goal (eating the food) by performing the task we want (sit).

Proofing under Distraction
------------------------------
Once your dog understands the exercise (meaning that he can execute the exercise on one single verbal command without any help whatsoever), you can start some mild distraction to proof the exercise. Proofing is essential in every exercise you teach your dog. Without proofing, your dog will obey the command in some situations but won’t comply when there is something more interesting to him, such as the presence of another dog. In the proofing stage, the dog learns that there is a consequence when he doesn't’t comply with your command.

Proofing is done while the animal is in a correct position, for example the Sit position after you tell him to sit. To create distraction or what we call Strengthening of a Position, you simply pull slightly on the lead that is attached to the dog’s collar to create a mild tension. At the beginning you only have a very slight tension on the lead, as you don’t want to pull him out of the Sit. After 2 to 5 seconds, stop the tension, pat your dog and praise him “Good Boy, Sit.” Occasionally give him a piece of food. Repeat the tension again and this time for 6 to 10 seconds. If your dog leaves the Sit position, apply very mild, continuous tugging on the lead to create irritation to the dog. Keep the tugging constant without saying anything. It is extremely important that you do not show any displease with the dog verbally or physically while you are applying the irritation, because the dog might be sensitive to you and that will slow down his learning progress. You might need to guide the animal back into a Sit with your hands. Once he goes back into the Sit position, the irritation stops instantly. Give him a pat and praise him “Good Boy, Sit.” Repeat the tension again and if he leaves the Sit, irritation starts until he goes back into position. After a few repetitions, tell your dog “Break” and play with him and have some fun, or take him for a walk. Every training session should finish on a high note.

The aim of the proofing stage is to show the dog clearly that staying in position is favorable, and leaving the position causes discomfort. After a few days of proofing with the pulling, you should gradually build up the tension on the lead until your dog is so eager to stay in position that you can drag him around while he is still sitting. At this point you should start introducing other distractions such as noises, people around, and different environment. Be careful not to raise the distraction level too high all at once or your dog will not be able to perform.

In this example of proofing, the conditioned stimulus is the tugging on the collar that irritates the dog. The conditioned response is Sit, which is a more favorable option for the dog.

Securing through Repetition
--------------------------------
After the dog understands the distinction between Sit on command is pleasure and breaking the Sit is irritation, you can practice the exercise on a range of highly distractive environments such as busy streets or train stations. The idea of this stage of training is to make the dog dependable in executing the exercise and staying in position no matter what, so that he is reliable in any situation. Your dog still has a good feeling associated with the command “Sit” because you have paired "Sit" with pleasure at the beginning. He now also knows how to switch off the irritation by complying with your command and keeping a strong position.


Obedience Exercises
------------------------
Obedience training is a must for every responsible dog owner. It is like the education for children. An obedience-trained dog is not just easier to control and better to live with. He is also clear of what you want and hence a happier dog. The following exercises show you the motion of the teaching phase. Before you actually start training your dog in obedience, I strongly recommend you to read and fully understand How Dogs Learn. Once you understand the principle of animal learning, training is a lot easier.

1. Recall
----------
This is the very first exercise your dog should know and it is the most important command. At the beginning, it has to be always fun and something good for your dog to come to you. We use a bit of food, a toy, or interaction with you to build his motivation. You simply show him the food, run away at full speed while calling his name. For a lot of dogs, seeing his master sprinting away is already a big stimulation and most of them will start chasing you straight away. When he comes to you, he is reinforced by “Good Boy, Come” and a bit of food. Always pair the Come command with “Good Boy” and food so that your dog develops a good feeling with the Come. Doing it this way, your dog will always be happy to run up to you. You can do this anywhere.

The Come is the most important exercise in all obedience. Good and reliable recalls can save your dog’s life or someone from getting hurt. During training, always evaluate the situation and never ask your dog to come if you are unsure he will approach you or not. Once he has learned that he doesn't have to obey your command, it is very difficult to break his habit and you have lost all the control over your dog. During a training session, call your dog’s name and give him the command “Come”. Be consistent with one single command and do not change it or it will confuse him. You should always show him that you are happy with him when he comes. Never call a dog over to punish him. The Come is one exercise that is always exciting for the dog, so he wants to come to you as quickly as possible even under a high level of distraction. When you have a good recall, all other exercises can be trained quite easily. Practice this everyday until your dog bolts at you every time you call him.

To proof this exercise, go somewhere with mild distraction such as a quiet street with a little traffic. Have a long line (5m) attached to your dog’s collar and let him roam around. When he is not paying attention to you, call his name and tell him “Come”. If he comes, give him a lot of praise and a bit of play. If he doesn't show any response to you, give him a sharp jerk on the long line without saying anything. Once he comes to you give him a lot of praise. After a few repetitions, your dog will understand that when you call him, he must come.

Secure the exercise in different environments when your dog can come to you consistently. Reinforce him with food only occasionally.

2. Sit
------
The Sit is a very practical exercise. It gives you control over your dog in situations such as waiting to cross the road or at the vet clinic. Use food again to teach your dog to sit on command. First, have a handful of treats (chopped up sausage) and call your dog over. When he comes to you, give him some food and praise him for coming. You can then lure him with the food. You pull your food hand back and lift it up slowly. The dog might try everything to get to the food but sit. He might jump or climb up on you, just be patient and ignore all that. As your dog lifts his head to follow your right hand, gently push down his hindquarter into a sit with your left hand. At that moment you give him some food and praise your puppy by “Good Boy, Sit” so he can associate sitting with the command. This is not as easy as it seems but with practice everyday, you can perfect it in about a week.

To proof the Sit, you simply pull slightly on the lead that is attached to the dog’s collar to create a mild tension. At the beginning you only have a slight tension on the lead, as you don’t want to pull him out of the Sit. After 2 to 5 seconds, stop the tension, pat your dog and praise him “Good Boy, Sit.” Repeat the tension again and this time for 6 to 10 seconds. If your dog leaves the Sit position, apply very mild, continuous tugging on the lead to create irritation to the dog. Keep the tugging constant without saying anything. You might need to guide the animal back into a Sit with your hands. Once he goes back into the Sit position, the irritation stops instantly. Give him a pat and praise him “Good Boy, Sit.” Repeat the tension again and if he leaves the Sit, irritation starts until he goes back into position. After a few repetitions, tell your dog “Break” and play with him and have some fun, or take him for a walk.

To secure the Sit, generalize the exercise in a wide range of environments. Sit means sit straight and not move until you say “Break”. Your dog should know how to escape the irritation by sitting strongly, with absolute focus. Be aware that, once your dog knows what Sit means, you only tell him once, not 2, 3, 4 or 5 times. If he doesn't sit after 2 seconds you give him the command, the irritation (tugging on the collar) happens.

3. Drop
--------
The drop is to get your dog to get down so his abdomen and elbows are touching the ground. This exercise is especially useful when you have to leave your dog for a short time. You can simply tie you dog up on a post, tell him to drop and walk away. We use food again to lure the dog to drop. From a stand or a sit position, you let him sniff the food and then you turn your palm down. The dog should stick his nose under your palm to try to eat the food. You slowly lower the hand and lure him to go down. Very often you would have to physically help the dog to drop and he might struggle and resist. Ignore all the unwanted behaviours. When he eventually drops, you give him the food and praise “Good Boy, Drop”. Practice with patience makes perfection.

Proofing the Drop is same as proofing the Sit. The only difference is the Drop position. In Proofing, you show the dog that staying in the Drop position is favorable (praise or food), and breaking the position is discomfort (tugging on collar). Soon he will distinguish what is good and what is not.

To secure the drop, train your dog in as many different locations as you can after the proofing stage of the exercise.

4. Stay
--------
You do not need a stay command for dog because Sit means sit and stay sit until you say otherwise, same as the Drop. Both the proofing stage and the securing stage are very significant to strengthen the Sit or Drop so that your dog will not move once he is in position.

5. Heel
--------
Heel means having your dog walk by your side without pulling. We can achieve this by using food as a reward for the dog. When you start, have a handful of food in your left hand and hold the lead with the right. First, sit your dog by you left side, with his shoulders parallel with your left leg. Praise him for sitting by your side and reward the behaviour with a few pieces of food. You then take off with your left leg first and guide your dog with the food so he walks by your side. As he is showing you the behaviour (heel), praise him with “Good Boy, Heel” and feed him some food. Soon he will be able to associate the behaviour with the command and reward.

To proof this exercise, heel off with your dog and reinforce him with food when he is right beside you. If he lags behind, tug gently at the lead until he catches up with you and then reinforce him with praise and food. If he lunges forward, you can do a sharp 90-degree left turn to cut him off. You can also do a quick 180-degree turn and give him a sharp jerk on the collar without saying a word. He will have to quickly keep up with you and give him a piece of food for reinforcement once he is beside you again.

The heel exercise is very handy when you are walking a big or strong dog. By teaching him walking by your side, you save a lot of energy playing tug-of-war with him on the lead. Secure this exercise with repetition in various locations.

List Of Comment

#1 bella rizky - 2011-11-06 10:40:23
tolong dikirimin video latihan kepatuhan anjing tingkat dasa ( golden retriever )


#2 Putra - 2011-11-23 17:41:59
Salam kenal,,nama saya putra...kebetulan saya memiliki 1 anakan belgian mallanois yg berusia 5 bulan bernama Quinn,,bagaimana merawatnya agar dia tidak mengambil makanan dr teman2 nya yg lain (saya juga memiliki 4 jenis anjing lainnya tp ras kecil),,padahal jenis makanan sudah d bedakan,,utk Quinn sdh saya siapkan daging olahan bersama dgn nasi,,utk anjing yg lain saya berikan dog food saja,,bagaimana pelatihannya?? Untuk jawabannya terima kasih banyak


#3 regiana - 2013-06-08 15:38:14
saya mau latih anak anjing saya baru umur 1.5 bulan .. gimana yaa cara cepet nya ?? anjing nya suka pipis n pup smbarangan :S


#4 Liman - 2013-06-19 00:39:13
@Putra: dipisahkan, maka masalah kamu selesai. pisahkan pas mau makan. itu food drive yang tinggi. kalau kamu food drivenya, maka dikemudian hari kamu akan mengalami masalah latihan. karena food drive digunakan untuk membentuk mereka dalam latihan.


#5 Liman - 2013-06-19 00:42:09
@regiana: anakan usia 1.5 bulan seperti usia bayi 2 tahun. untuk pup dan pee, perlu diperhatikan. anakan selalu sehabis makan, main, baru bangun tidur, baru minum, akan selalu pee atau pup. jadi sehabis hal diatas, bawa dia jalan atau lepasin dia di pekarangan atau tempat dia yang bisa pee atau pup. lakukan konsisten, maka dia dikemudian hari akan selalu melakukan hal itu diluar rumah.


#6 Liman - 2013-06-19 00:52:46
@regiana: anakan usia 1.5 bulan seperti usia bayi 2 tahun. untuk pup dan pee, perlu diperhatikan. anakan selalu sehabis makan, main, baru bangun tidur, baru minum, akan selalu pee atau pup. jadi sehabis hal diatas, bawa dia jalan atau lepasin dia di pekarangan atau tempat dia yang bisa pee atau pup. lakukan konsisten, maka dia dikemudian hari akan selalu melakukan hal itu diluar rumah.


#7 novan - 2013-10-07 09:36:48
mohon sarannya, saya mau adopt anjing untuk keluarga (dirumah banyak anak kecil), dan anjing tersebut bisa andalkan dalam menjaga kawasan/rumah(menggonggong seperti alarm).

thanks


#8 Liman - 2013-10-21 19:44:46
@novan: silakan ke facebook group anjingkerja.com
saya hanya bisa sarankan kunjungi club club yang ada atau breeder yg ada bisa diliat dari anjingkita.com dan liat mana yang kamu suka kemudian tinggal baca tentang breed itu.
salam, Liman


#9 alit - 2013-11-24 01:02:40
anjing saya mulai memahami beberapa perintah dasar. hanya saja belum terbiasa diikat dengan tali. jadi agak sulit melatih dan membawanya jalan2. jadinya tidak terbiasa dengan orang ramai. dari mana sebaiknya saya mulai latihannya?


#10 Liman - 2013-11-27 20:48:34
@alt: mulai dengan membawa dia jalan dengan tali.
salam,
Liman


#11 @bun - 2014-01-02 01:29:08
Saya mau bertanya, mengapa anjing saya agresif skali? Kalo di pegang malah gigit. Umurnya baru 3 bulan. Saya menaruhnya di kandang ketika dia tidur dan makan. Apa itu berpengaruh?


#12 liman - 2014-01-02 10:37:23
@bun: boleh tahu anjing kamu jenis apa? kamu sentuh dia pada waktu dia makan? atau asal sentuh dia gigit?


#13 imelda / answered - 2014-02-26 02:33:43
@imelda: bawa dia jalan, setiap kali dia liat anda, langsung reward dia. jangan mengemis kepadanya. Kita biasanya memancing ikan tidak memancing doggie. kalau kita berpikir secara logika, kalau dia lapar dan hanya anda yang punya makanan, apakah dia akan mengemis ke anda?
LF
---------------------------
salam, anjing saya kintamani 4 bulan lebih. kenapa susah melakukan kontak mata. kl dipanggil tidak pernah mau menatap kita. sdh dipancing dengan makanan tetap saja enggak mau. thanks


#14 choki/answered - 2014-08-27 17:07:55
@choki: apa yang akan anda berikan sebagai reward?
LF_________
Sya mau tanya,sya punya husky jantan usia 6bln,bagaimana cara melatih latihan dasar tanpa memberikan reward yg berupa makanan?salam


#15 Kevin/answered - 2016-07-17 06:59:30
@Kevin: hanya bisa latihan yang sederhana saja, dia kemana-mana karena dia tidak tertarik dengan anda, coba pikir apa yang bisa anda lakukan sehingga dia tertarik dengan anda dan mau dekat dengan anda dan senang.
LF________
Bang saya kan baru beli anak anjing berumur 3,5 bulanan lahh apa udh bisa dilatih kepatuhan dasar ?? Karna setiap mau ngelatih dia kemana mana teruss gak bisa diam tolong bantuan dan responnya ya bang terimakasihh


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